IFR 26650 Powerbank

DennisVanHoek said:
loads of cell to gosince I can only place 2 cell's in on charger.
My soldering Iron has problems soldering the positive side of these cell's.
I might get some more/aggressiveflux...
Click to expand...

You can find holder for you cells and solder them to the charger so you can use all 4 channels.

that strange you have problem with positive as usually it's negative who's harder (thicker so need a big iron).
As positive is a thin part it's probably like you'r thinking, not appropriate flux and not a soldering iron problem)
 
Try "roughing up" the positive end with a little emery paper or similar, has worked for me also a bit of a rub with isopropyl alcohol sometimes is enough.
Those 26650s are a good score
 
Thanks for the input guys!

I have a 300W ChineesIron that melts through...anything.. But I don't want to overheat the cells.
The A123 26650 cells have a different build, the outside/ big surface is the positive side.So that makes the positive harder to solder.

26650 cell holders arrived to extent my chargers :).
I made anadapters to fit 4 cells in a charger for testing and it works fine.


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If you search the forum everyone keeps buying these shit tools and refuses to spend $100 to get a proper soldering iron...why? It'll make your life 1000% easier...the right tool for the job makes a massive difference...stop throwing away money of shit tools and get yourself a proper iron, you'll save hours and hours and the headache...

This is an awesome build man and the 26650 is the way of the future. I promise you if you get a good tool, your thank yourself for it!
 
$18 iron did 1000's of soldiers only thing that failed was the tips (from burning off the old winding wire i was using for fuses)
 
I use this for years for big solders and now for batteries (did 1000+ cells and a lot of big copper bar/cables connexions), the tip is still in nice condition as I clean it each time from corrosive flux (and I use a lot of really corrosive flux on some works...)
http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/588194/Micro-fer-souder-TOOLCRAFT-588194-100-W

For precision stuff I use this JBC 30w with a 1mm tip (the one provided is 2mm I think), was bought on teh same day years ago and the tip is in perfect condition after hundreds of hours of use.
http://www.conrad.fr/ce/fr/product/063295/Fer-souder-JBC-30S-25-W-380-C-max
 
1958greyhound said:
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the Chinese 300 watter is a monster.
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I bought one of those. I have not tried soldering with it yet. The reviews I read said it works well. Most of the reviewers are using it for stained glass or copper gutters.


I am concerned that the tip is too wide for the positive contact on the 18650 cells.
I will start by practicing on bad cells. I may be able to grind down the tip to make it narrower if it is too wide.

Mine was about 30 dollars off eBay.
 
That's like using a sledge hammer for finish nailing! Of course it will work, but it's a pain in the ass! And so many other people have also done it this way and it blows my mind. It's because they really have no idea how to solder when they started. And that's totally cool, but as we move on and evolve, we learn to use the right tool for the job. I've also done ten of thousands of cells, but NEVER burned up 1 tip, never. And I don't hassle with it not getting the solder exactly where I need it, not the top being harder to solder than the bottom, and any of those other issues that occur when the tool is incorrect. I am not blasting everyone but I do want to help and those giant sledge hammer tools you guys use are insane. There for welding ships or melting I-beams or something... the Hakko I tagged is made by one the best and most reputable companies in the business and after you use it to build one pack, you'll toss that other torch, I promise. It also has a calibration mode so you can "over clock" it if you need too...which is rare.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A...words=hakko+fx-888d&psc=1&smid=A1UB0766FG4V9I


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Here mine on the bench. Came with free end cutters, and various tip sizes. Cutters aregreat for pack disasssemly.

a
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This one even has a heat gun and small power supply built in. Walmart website for $60. Not as good as the hakko but still a precision adjustable iron. The heat gun is for heat-shrink tube.

You get beautiful little pools of solder and the tip is tiny so you can put the solder exactly where you want it. And all within 2-3 secs of contact with the cells
 
I was of the grid for a bit..

Thanks for the soldering input guys!

I have several soldering Iron stations available since my younger brother and dad are sparky's ;)
I was having problem soldering the positive side with a 50W Iron.

I din't dare to touch the cells with the 300W thing.
The 300W is really good for soldering big terminal boots and stuff.

The 26650 cell's come from tactical ropeclimbing powerascenders:
http://www.tags-systems.com/site/images/slider/12.jpg
 
Help :rolleyes:

I have solder problems..
When soldering 18650 with my 60W iron it goes like dream.(no need of the 300W iron)
touch and go..


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But the 26650's from A123 are a pain to solder. Even after wirebrusing,sandpaper and grinding the solder is not "flowing".
I used a lot of additional flux on this one after guiding this is the best i get..


image_arbioc.jpg


It sort of bonds on the old spotweld hole.

For comparison I soldered some 18650 and an other type pf 26650 with the same iron and solder with flux.
first one: 26650with loads of flux din't even bond.
second one: 26650 after grinding and wire brushing pre fluxed,5 sec adding loads of flux-solder
third one: other brand 26650only some flux solder touch and go 2 sec
fourth one:18650 pre soldered andsome flux solder touch and go
fifth one: 18650 some flux wire touch and go 2 sec

image_ecicdr.jpg


Any advice beside of spot welding?

cheers
 
Have you tried using your 300w iron? 60w on those may not be enough and they contain alot more metal and surface to get rid of heat so you need several more times heat than on 18650. I have done some 26650 and they need more work.
 
Some more advice needed ;)

I 'm not sure what fuse wire to get.
The cell's are ableto deliver 50A for 3 minutes I'm not sure If I ever want them to deliver that much..
So the question is how many Afuse wire to use and wy would you use that amount of A? in this case not to protect the cell when your under 50A.. :cool:

daromer said:
Have you tried using your 300w iron? 60w on those may not be enough and they contain alot more metal and surface to get rid of heat so you need several more times heat than on 18650. I have done some 26650 and they need more work.
Click to expand...

Yes I tryetthe 300W and it looks just as bad it needs a lot of time to make the solder flow..THe other 26650 cell's I have don't have any problem flowing.. And I only dear to solder dead cells for the moment with the 300W unit...

1958greyhound said:
Yup you need more mass in the iron, the battery is stealing the heat and your getting cold joints.

Looks like the cells are double layered.
Click to expand...

The 300W unit is not much better.
I need to make contact a long time...

The double layer should help containing the heat from my point of view?..
 
The 300 watt takes for ever to warm up, did you measure the tip temp before you started ?

On cells that are a pain, I don't just hold the tip on the cell,
Wait for the tip to warm all the way up, hold on the cell for 3-5 seconds, lift for 5 seconds and repeat till solder flows.
 
Either you dont get enough heat transfered or the cells have a surface that isnt solderable.

The ones i used just needed alot of heat and they worked but i have had cells almost impossible to heat. they needed alot of solder with alot of flux to flow.

Choose fuse wire after what you are going to use from them and not what the cells are capable of. WIth that current you dont need much of fuse wire at all :) You can just use thick wire.
 
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