Battery advice for my solar system?

Korishan said:
Cold soldering refers to the parts being soldered not getting hot enough to keep the solder in liquid form. Your soldered joint shouldn't look pale or hazy, but should be more glossy.

Please watch this video:


Hello, thanks for your reply. Could it have affected the quality of the solder? Solder

Do you have suggestions on the content. Like lead ratio
 
Different people use different solder. You just find what works for you. I personally haven't really found one I like better over another (daromer can add to this with his recommendations).

However, I personally like to use flux core solder as it helps a lot with the soldering process. I also will use flux paste ontop of that. But that's me. I haven't done enough soldering to get a lot technique down.
But ultimately you want to make sure your iron stays hot enough long enough, and your work gets hot quickly to allow for solder flow. When soldering wires, it's good practice to pre-solder them (also known as "tinning") before adding it to your work. This allows for quickly flowing when more metal is added. This is especially needed on larger wires (16 awg and larger) as they will dissipate the heat quickly.
 
Many people do get cold joints from start. I did this to when I started my first soldering when i was like 6 or 7 years old :) I have gotten better at soldering even though I dont do it for a living.

I use 60/40 solder with flux core. The lead parts make it easier to solder in my opinion. I go with 60/40 instead of 63/37 since i get it easier. Lead based is not always legal but for us hobyists it generally is. I have no good clue of what makes what in the solder it self in terms of corosion. Most of my work have not had that kind of issues so never needed to learn. Or i have been lucky with the solder i have been using :)

Flux/rosin based ones have the parts inside that makes it flow easier and you rarely need to add that externaly. its a litle bit more messy in terms of that you should clean your solder afterwards. Can corode otherwise. But thats simple. When you have tinned the cells i just go over them with a brush and they are clean enough for my work.

Im not a pro in this at all. I have learned the hard way and I have watched and listened to others.
For soldering iron its important to have decent mass on the iron so you can transfer enough heat in short enough time. That will ensure that you dont overheat the cells and make sure that the solder flows out. If you look at my video you see how nice and flat easy they just flow. Yes the soldering iron is huge and that makes it easier :) And no i have not cleaned the cells before.

Hope that helps :) Neverthe less we all start somewhere!
 
Thank you for your answers. I will take these into consideration when creating the next battery group. Now I need to find some old laptop battery. I guess I can get free of charge from the computer repairers there.
 
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Hello there. I ordered 20 old laptop batteries. I paid about $ 20. I am trying to make a charging station from the TP4056 circuits I bought before. At the same time I left the parallel cables in the discharge process. Do you have any suggestions? how does it look.
 
Looks good. And the use of some old cat5 cable is a nice touch. We're all about recycling here :)

If you run a common set of power rails for the TP's, make sure you use some heavy copper. If you put too many TP's on 14 guage wire, you'll have issues with the ones at the end of the line. Or, make a loop back to your powersupply. Not sure how long each charging station is going to be.

Now, are said left the parallel cables. Do you mean you left the cell holders connected in parallel on one end and the TP's connected to the other? Or you have the ability to reconnect them back up in parallel? You can't have the cells in parallel and try to charge with a TP/cell. It won't work properly. You can switch between connections, though, without issue.
 
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the latest version as follows. bit of mixed looks. this business amateurish was. the most from the top + 5ve -5v cable tp4056 a parallel way will connect. charge in this way to do. tp4056 battery link to the ends of parallel to a link connector to use. because tp4056 only 1a discharge limited to parallel to get from the links more current can I think. UST section cat5 cables is tp4056 the control of battery a maximum of 1a can be and low-voltage power off protection will be.


in fact, it is a PCB on the card to make would love to. but facility yet. this is the ends of the discharge voltage monitoring and the same time, another battery group to compensate for use I want to.
 
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In 20 laptop batteries, 125 cells were output. 7 cell trash. I will measure and record the values. I will write the list.
 
PANASONIC CGR18650D 6PCS
LG LGDA531865 6PCS
UNKNOWN 6E62114 6PCS
SAMSUNG ICR18650-20C 4PCS
SONY SF US18650GR 19PCS
PANASONIC CGR18650DA 12PCS
LG LGEP218650 12PCS
SAMSUNG ICR18650-22F 12PCS
SANYO UR18650FH 41PCS

TOTAL 118PCS
 
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Which 5 volt 30 A connection is this power supply? I tied black with purple cable. 3 cells can be charged.
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connecting to the 4 wire molex leads, the black are negative/ground, the Red wire is +5V, and the Yellow wire is +12V. Those are the wires you really should use as they are heavier than the others.

Also, you have to power on the unit by connecting the green wire with black (they are right next to each other) on the ATX connection. You may need to look it up if you don't have a green wire and look at the pin # instead.
 
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thank you. ATX the link to say I did not like. trying to. 15 battery at the same time being charged. an old fan with cool. cells 10 pcs more 0 Volt, and the trash went.

view all charge I will., and one by one number will give. a table and save the discharge capacity that I will. each cell how to, and that the quality of registration will.
 
ismaildoganw said:
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thank you. ATX the link to say I did not like. trying to. 15 battery at the same time being charged. an old fan with cool. cells 10 pcs more 0 Volt, and the trash went.

view all charge I will., and one by one number will give. a table and save the discharge capacity that I will. each cell how to, and that the quality of registration will.

Can't understand what you're translating...
Btw, in the market you can get the TP4056 with the 18650 holder together... meaning you do not need to wired up like what you're doing now... Just connect to USB will do... simple

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155021736323423&set=pcb.469168303429736&type=3&theater
 
Dan Lim said:
Ismaildoganw said:
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thank you. ATX the link to say I did not like. trying to. 15 battery at the same time being charged. an old fan with cool. cells 10 pcs more 0 Volt, and the trash went.

view all charge I will., and one by one number will give. a table and save the discharge capacity that I will. each cell how to, and that the quality of registration will.

Can't understand what you're translating...
Btw, in the market you can get the TP4056 with the 18650 holder together... meaning you do not need to wired up like what you're doing now... Just connect to USB will do... simple

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10155021736323423&set=pcb.469168303429736&type=3&theater
Everything is alright :) turkish contains very meaningful words. That's why the cycle is sometimes nonsense. I charge batteries. I will discharge and write the capacities. I did not see the photo on the link. I brought the tp4056 china. I can not find everything in Turkey. I pay a lot of cargo fees to other countries. So I have to make up with that.
 
The best DIY is to use what you have. No need to buy the chargers and holders combined as together they cost more than buying the 4-cell holder and 4 TP's.
And, reguardless of which setup he is using, he still needs to power the unit. If he uses all the USB connections, that's a lot of cables he either has to cut the ends off of, or buy USB hubs to power everything.
Using a computer PSU you get stable power, full amps available, and recycled from old parts.

Below are 3 images you may need to wire up the PSU. The Green wire I was referring to earlier is Pin 14 (shown in the middle image) You connect that directly to ground (Any of the black wires) and the PSU should power on. "IF" you need to put a load on it so it'll power up, you will need to use the resistor method shown in 1st and 3rd images. You could even use an LED with a resistor as a load and it'll show you when it's powered on.

The 1st & 2ndimages also shows the negative rails if you need/want those. Remember, you don't want to plug negative voltage (-12v, -5v, -3.3v) to a normal unit. You could fry the components.


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Thank you for the information. I made connections as you say. The TPs are currently working. I charged 45 batteries in 2 days. I need to find the old battery. There are 200 batteries. I need to get 640 pieces.
 
FIY. That charger can only test discharge at 0.5A. Thats the big difference compare to the Opus that kind of does 1A.
 
Daromer said:
FIY. That charger can only test discharge at 0.5A. Thats the big difference compare to the Opus that kind of does 1A.

This is not very decisive for me. I will have a lot of time to do what I want :). Thanks for reminding me.
 
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