Beginners Guide to Processing 18650 Cells | Cell Database


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Laptop Powered E-Bike
#11
Still waiting for fuse wire and 22 gauge (0.64 mm) wire, but I've started to put some cells together anyway. The first battery will be mostly red and blue cells, arranged with help from the Pack Builder, but also by color to give me a visual aid as to how they are oriented. It will be in a 3x14 grid and wired up as 7s6p. Here's the actual cells I'll be using. No dummy cell mock-up this time!
[Image: 1390c3a0a2947e7e324280e512e3f194.jpg]

I plan to fuse the positives but not the negatives, and I think I'm going to wire it up in this configuration:
[Image: 85fde994a690001af7250b55fa90873f.jpg]
Though I could also wire it up this way.
[Image: 50b99c60590ebde218b8fbc3c5519fa7.jpg]
-Mike G
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#12
2nd one is better since you got "2" wires instead of "1"
And the first one is not even in terms of length between cells and can cause balance issues and you will stress the one closest a bit more than the one last in chain.

The first one would work better if you use an O instead of U format. And instead of L in the end use same as you have on pack 2
Jesse Osborn likes this post
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#13
what motor controller do you have with it? can you limit AMPs? When I started building my bike I limited to 10amps so I could run 14s4p battery to start while I collected and built my other batteries. you could do some testing and maybe you won't need such a big battery. I'm also using a 7201a charger to charge (not balance charge though) my bike. and a RC charger to balance every once in a while.

you'll probably start to find a big bank problematic and will want to get power cells. I've gone almost 2000km's and looking at power cells so I can run a 14s5p setup.
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#14
I would be more worried about amp draw and what cells you used.

I used sanyo heaters on the kids power wheel battery and it gets HOT, you can hold it but its HOT.
So I'm capacity testing more battery's now and just going to triple the capacity.
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